Food culture in trains, train stations and platforms in Russia

Train travel, though shrouded in romance, but nothing human remains without attention. This also applies to food. If you can somehow endure during a short trip, then spending a day or several days without food is not an option at all. And the food culture itself on trains, at train stations and platforms is quite amazing. Moreover, it began to develop intensively at the beginning of the last century. A lot has changed since then, but something has remained unchanged. 

Food culture on the railway at the beginning of the XX century

Let's begin our acquaintance with this interesting question by plunging into the times of a hundred years ago. It was at the beginning of the last century that the first dining cars appeared. It was a real curiosity. But not everyone could afford to have lunch there. Luxury mobile restaurants were only part of the fast trains connecting Russian lands with other states. Those who wanted to eat there could count on exquisite cuisine, impeccable service and maximum comfort. There were even porcelain dishes in such cars ― a real luxury. 

Since 1912, hot drinks and lunches have been offered to passengers on trains. Of course, this was not in all directions and not for everyone who bought a ticket, but such a practice was already emerging. 

This was an amazing innovation for citizens who are used to taking huge baskets with them on the road. What they just didn 't have: 

• boiled eggs;
• pies with different fillings;
• boiled meat;
• a variety of snacks.

However, even without his basket of provisions on the train, it was possible to survive. There were special buffets at the stations. There you could buy hot food, cold snacks and drinks. And at the capital's railway stations, the opportunity to eat in fine restaurants was opened at all. Although there were catering establishments at smaller stations. The main thing is that the duration of the stop allows you to go out to eat.

Railway buffets had a sufficient assortment of snacks and drinks, so they were popular among passengers. Back in 1910, there were at least 1,200 such outlets on the Russian territory. Even at a small station, you could find a modest stall. 

However, it was also possible to buy some simple food inside the train, even if there was no separate restaurant car in the train. Simple snacks were traded by conductors and stokers.

Food culture in Soviet times

The station buffets were handed over to the cooperators back in the 20s of the last century. Passengers could choose a hearty and delicious dish at fairly affordable prices. No one left the buffet hungry. They were offered a variety of side dishes, cutlets, boiled chicken, dried fruit compotes and juices, salads and sweet rolls. 

In those days, it was not customary to warm up food in buffets. If you were lucky, then the visitor bought only recently cooked food, still warm. If it got cold, they ate and did not complain. So it was accepted until the 80s. 

A small revolution in the culture of "tourist" food occurred in the middle of the last century. In the 50s, original establishments appeared at the stations. While the standard buffets offered a relatively diverse menu, the new restaurants did not offer a wide selection. Moreover, their "assortment" often included up to three dishes. They were prepared according to special recipes that differed from standard restaurant dishes. For example, dumplings with special fillings. And it worked! Such establishments became more and more popular.

In the 60s, dining cars ceased to be a luxury. They appeared even in non-company stores and enjoyed success. The queues were long, because passengers were offered delicious set meals at affordable prices.

In Soviet times, people's trade was also quite developed. Locals came out on the platform before the arrival of the train to offer tourists something to eat. It could be both gifts of nature (apples, pears, grapes, various berries) and cooked food. Sometimes the hostesses specially prepared a lot of dishes so that there was something to offer to train passengers:

• boiled potatoes (a special chic was considered young with greens);
• smoked fish;
• cutlets;
• pies and pies with different fillings;
• pickles, sauerkraut and homemade canned food.

The People's railway catering was especially popular under Gorbachev. When the party began to fight alcoholism, it was possible to buy alcohol from under the floor at the train station. Sellers could offer not only homemade moonshine, but also vodka with port. 

Modern food culture in trains and train stations

Today, the variety of cafeterias, restaurants and just stalls at the stations is impressive. Food for every taste, from healthy food to fast food. In vending machines, you can buy products for quick consumption, a variety of snacks and cookies. There are such even at small train stations.

Spontaneous markets have ceased to be a mass phenomenon, because compliance with sanitary requirements is monitored more carefully than before. Therefore, "people's trade" at the stations practically ceased to exist.

A modern passenger can solve the problem with food in any way:

• take food with you;
• buy snacks and drinks from the conductor (in some cases, food is already included in the ticket);
• order from the dining car.

When buying a ticket to a high-comfort train, you can choose the number of meals and even an approximate diet. This is convenient if you have to spend a long time on the road, and there is no desire to eat instant noodles or food from home.

Tea on the way: how to drink hot drinks on the train before and now

At the turn of the XIX and XX centuries, passengers even took a kettle with them on the road. They did not deny themselves the pleasure of drinking a hot drink on the journey, but then there was no place to get hot water on the trains. But at each station there was a special structure with a cube for boiling water. There they took hot water into their kettles, and then prepared the desired drink. The conductors brought boiling water to the passengers from the first and second class carriages. People from the third grade were less lucky. They had to visit the "cubes for boiling water" themselves.

In the Soviet Union, it was free at every station. In imperial Russia, they paid for it, but not much - just a penny. 

You could also buy hot drinks at the buffet at the next station. There was a huge samovar in every catering establishment. It had a "nameplate" on it, where it was indicated which station it belonged to.

In 1946, the process of tea drinking on the train began to look less like a quest. Big titans with boiling water appeared in the cars. It was possible to drink tea at any time, without waiting for the next stop. Moreover, it was served in a traditional cup holder. It, like the measured sound of wheels, is the main association with traveling by train.

Today, despite the huge progress since that time, the passenger can still buy tea, which is served in a cup holder. As they say, something always remains the same.